The Chicago History Museum’s Chic Chicago exhibit displays “Couture Treasures” from the museum’s permanent collection. The stunning and feminine garments worn by prominent Chicago socialites contrast a set of grim, masculine quotations about the city presented on the exhibition walls. There are over 60 costumes, dating from 1861 to 2004, including three dresses by the brilliant couturier, master cutter and architect of fabric, Charles James.

James, born in Chicago in 1906, was known for his remarkable knowledge of structure, daring explorations of fabric combinations and painstaking, time-consuming details. Before Sunday’s visit to the museum, I was unfamiliar with his work though I soon realized that I continued to be drawn to the trio of dresses that bore his name — The details are amazing. Period. The bead-work on the “Infanta” dress is unbelievable and the layers of pink and peach tulle that would have peeked out from beneath the elegant black top layers of the dress when the wearer would step is a visual that continues to make me smile. The directional draping on the “Butterfly” ballgown is breathtakingly complex and graphic — composed of 25 yards of tulle, the dress weighs 18 pounds! And is so structurally sound that it could stand on it’s own, sans model or manequin.

James revolted against the ready-to-wear industry and standard creation timelines, more often than not becoming consumed with perfecting every minute detail of his artistic vision for the garment. It was “joked” that he could spend over two weeks on a single sleeve. He refused and hated the title of “designer,” forever preferring couturier.

With all of their precise flash and volume, it’s easy for the gowns, with names like “Butterfly,” “Infanta,” “Shrimp” and “Clover,” to dominate James’ collection of work, though it would be a shame for one to miss out on his cocktail dresses and jackets. The asymetrical lines, innovative draping and ever-conscious attention to overall shape make each piece a real treat for the eyes.

Enjoy!!!

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For more information on the work and life of Charles James, please check out Charles James, a fashion memoire.

Chic Chicago: Couture Treasures from the Chicago History Museum runs through July 26, 2009. Please click here for a preview of selected pieces from the exhibition.

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Top photograph: “Butterfly” Ballgown, 1954

Detail of “Butterfly” Ballgown, 1954


“Butterfly” Ballgown, 1954


“Butterfly” Ballgown, 1954

“Four-Leaf Clover” Ballgown, 1953

“Infanta” Evening Gown, c. 1952

Copper taffeta bias-cut gown with assymetric skirt, 1940s

Eiderdown-filled satin jacket, 1930s

Cutaway Bolero Jacket, 1952

Photo of Charles James Dresses by Cecil Beaton for “Vogue,” 1948

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